In an exclusive conversation with BW Retail World, Hemant Sagar, co-founder of Genes Lecoanet Hemant shares insights on the brand’s evolution, commitment to sustainability and plans for expansion
Fashion serves as a mirror reflecting the collective consciousness, intertwining individual expression with broader societal influences. Lecoanet Hemant, founded by Indo-French-German designers, Hemant Sagar and Didier Lecoanet, pioneers in this intricate tapestry, embarked on their fashion journey at the Paris Fashion Week in 1984. Since then, their creations have been an ever-evolving narrative of style, weaving together diverse influences and cultural nuances.
As their new collection unfurled on 29 February 2024, Sagar engaged in an exclusive conversation with BW Retail World.
Excerpts:
You were a couturier in the beginning. What was the idea that led to Lecoanet Hemant?
Hemant: Certainly, the journey started when I entered the couture world in Paris, facing the challenge of introducing Indian elements. I met Lecoanet, and our diverse cultural backgrounds inspired an amalgamation of ideas, reflecting our outlook on life. Our couture workshops emphasised intricate craftsmanship, focusing not just on embroidery but also on the study of body movement in garment fitting.
Early on, we understood the influence we could have in defining what people wear. Despite couture being exclusive, we aimed to bridge cultures, reaching out to the select few who could afford it. This approach shaped our brand’s identity and connected with clients worldwide.
Can you describe the design philosophy driving Lecoanet Hemant’s labels?
Hemant: After accumulating couture knowledge, we founded Genes in India, creating collections for a diverse audience. It’s about mingling aesthetics, making couture creations accessible for daily or occasional wear. We aim to be inclusive, embracing the styles of individuals from different walks of life.
How does Genes Lecoanet Hemant blend East and West influences?
Hemant: Lecoanet hails from France and I’m from India, resulting in a unique cultural blend. We straddle the cultural bridge, fusing opposite influences. The collection is a realisation of our travels and experiences, transforming illusions into tangible products.
How does the brand manifest its vision in design and ethics, translating into retail strategy for consumer engagement?
Hemant: Our retail strategy focuses on accessibility and inclusivity. We aim to offer value without making clients save for years. The vision lies in representing a real value, and we believe being accessible makes us inclusive. The retail strategy is aligned with our commitment to providing unique, individualistic fashion.
How do you plan to expand in India?
Hemant: We’ve initiated expansion in India, foreseeing 12-14 shops. Cities like Chandigarh and Pune, with international influences, could be next. I could very well imagine being in, for example, I find is Chandigarh because there’s a whole attitude and it has automatically trickled down to the habitants of Chandigarh who are very sophisticated and have a very international outlook. Southeast Asia seems promising, given its influence on global fashion trends.
Do you plan to spread the collection to other stores as well like multi-brand outlets?
Hemant: It’s a bit more difficult because of the system of sales in India where basically it’s consignment and it’s an awful system because people will have 55 times their stock ready-made because of opportunism reins and not willing to actually promote a brand, unfortunately.
It’s not a very committed solution for us.
We are close to our clients and if we work with a multibrand outlet, the person must commit to a certain extent. And if the commitment from our side means having to rent a rack and go to that shop, it might as well just open a shop of your own. So, our exclusive showrooms are more you than the retail store.
How has the business grown, especially online, and what’s the plan for Southeast Asia expansion?
Hemant: Online growth has been harmonious, with balanced proportions between men’s and women’s collections. I’ll give you a small example, which is an anecdote. I bought a pair of shoes from Adidas some ten years ago here in Gurugram at the Metropolitan Mall and it was launched four years later in Paris. So, it just proves that these people, they do launch their styles first in Asia, and then to the rest of the world.
Southeast Asia, with its early exposure to fashion trends, is a potential market for expansion.
How does Lecoanet Hemant reflect a commitment to sustainability and ethical fashion?
Hemant: We engage in projects like SilaiWali, recycling scraps into products. It uses our scraps and deals with women who sew little puppets in the look of our collection and stuff them with our scraps. So that’s a recycled project that we do have.
Our line, Ayurganic, incorporates ancient Ayurvedic textile treatments. We strive to minimise synthetics, plastics, and overall environmental impact.
Can you elaborate on the role of purposeful design in shaping Genes Lecoanet Hemant?
Hemant: Purposefulness guides our choices, emphasising reduced synthetics and plastic use. We try to do our best when we are cutting the garments, not to have too much pattern waste in plastics. It is all-around purposefulness.
We aim for conscious decisions in garment cutting to minimise waste, acknowledging the unavoidable polluting factor in fashion.
How do timeless pieces factor into retail merchandising, ensuring appeal to a diverse Indian consumer base?
Hemant: Timeless pieces are reinterpreted regularly, ensuring a mix-and-match element from past collections. We consciously build on previous collections to allow customers to build their wardrobes without constant reinvention.
What’s the vision for the future of Genes Lecoanet Hemant, considering the dynamic fashion industry?
Hemant: The vision is to be a globally recognised brand without being tied to a specific geographic location. We aim for inclusivity and accessibility, representing a style that resonates on all five continents.
We’re aiming for significant growth, planning to achieve 5X in revenue over the next three years across three continents with Genes.
