Luxury label introduce Kolhapuri-inspired collection with artisan partnerships and training programmes
Prada has introduced a limited-edition sandal collection under its “PRADA Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals” initiative, marking a formal re-engagement with a traditional Indian craft it was accused of appropriating less than a year ago. Instituted as part of a project first outlined in December 2025, the collection is now available across 40 selected stores globally and online.
According to media reports, sandals, reportedly priced at EUR 750 (USD 8811). However, the company has yet not released the official price yet.
Manufactured in India by artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka, the sandals draw directly from the regions where Kolhapuri chappals have been handcrafted for centuries. Prada said the collection “combines traditional techniques with contemporary design and premium materials to create a unique dialogue between Indian heritage and modern luxury expression,” positioning it as part of its decade-old “Made In…” initiative focused on global artisanal collaboration.
By the time Prada’s Spring-Summer 2026 menswear show concluded in Milan last June, however, the applause had scarcely faded before criticism began to build. The toe-loop leather sandals showcased on the runway were instantly recognisable to anyone familiar with Kolhapur’s streets or Maharashtra’s handicraft markets, yet were described in official show notes only as “leather sandals,” without any reference to India or the craft tradition behind them.
From Controversy To Collaboration
The reaction to that omission was swift and intense. Artisans in western Maharashtra, many of whom earn between Rs 500 and Rs 1,000 per pair crafting Kolhapuri chappals, voiced anger at seeing their work repackaged without attribution and sold globally at significantly higher prices. The Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture formally reached out to Prada, while Dhananjay Mahadik led a delegation to meet Devendra Fadnavis, raising concerns around cultural appropriation and Geographical Indication (GI) rights.
At the centre of the dispute was the GI tag granted in 2019, which links Kolhapuri chappals to their region of origin but does not protect the design itself. This legal gap allowed the brand to avoid direct infringement while still drawing heavily from the traditional form. Prada later acknowledged that the designs were “inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear” and expressed willingness to engage with artisan communities.
That engagement has now taken a more structured form. The collection has been developed in collaboration with Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation and Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation, government-backed organisations focused on safeguarding India’s leather craft heritage. The Prada Group has framed the initiative as a new chapter in its “Made In…” programme, aimed at working with master craftspeople on contemporary designs that “embody an unparalleled standard of quality transcending geographical boundaries.”
Alongside the product launch, Prada said to rollout a structured three-year training programme for artisans across eight Kolhapuri-producing districts. Fully funded by the company, including through proceeds from the collection, the initiative will train 180 artisans aged 18 to 45 in six-month modules, with applications for the first cohort opening in May 2026 for 30 seats split between institutions.
The programme will be delivered in partnership with the National Institute of Fashion Technology and the Karnataka Institute of Leather Aand Fashion Technology, with a curriculum spanning design fundamentals, digital skills, and market readiness. Dedicated studios and hands-on training will guide artisans from product development to commercial positioning, while select participants will advance to training at the Prada Group Academy in Italy under the company’s in-house experts.
“The collaborations between global brands and Indian artisans are quite common. However, transparency and fairness in these collaborations vary. While some brands uphold ethical practices, many transactions happen through layers of intermediaries, which makes it difficult to ensure that artisans receive fair value or credit. Unfortunately, recognition often gets lost along the way,” Srivastava previously told BW Businessworld.
However, after the collaboration this is not the scenario, institutional partners welcomed the collaboration, with Prerna Deshbhratar, LIDCOM highlighting its potential for “sustainable global positioning,” while KM Vasundhara, LIDKAR described it as a step toward elevating regional craftsmanship internationally. NIFT Director General Tanu Kashyap called it “a transformative step” in positioning Indian crafts as global luxury.
“Education is a fundamental pillar in ensuring that craftsmanship remains a living practice,” said Lorenzo Bertelli. “With this training program, we are translating a shared cultural dialogue into a concrete opportunity for learning and growth.”
Pricing, And Perception
Despite the structured collaboration and institutional backing, the Rs 84,000 price point, according to media reports, has come under scrutiny, especially when compared to authentic Kolhapuri chappals that retail for Rs 500 to Rs 1,000 in local markets. The disparity has intensified scrutiny on value distribution, particularly given that artisans producing similar designs often earn only a small fraction of the final retail price.
“The Prada-Kolhapuri sandal scandal has exposed a harsh reality: global luxury brands routinely profit from India’s artisan heritage while denying fair wages and recognition,” said Sanjay Nigam, Founder, Fashion Entrepreneur Fund, told BW Businessworld earlier when the controversy occured in June.
Public reaction to the relaunch reflects this tension. While some view the initiative as a step in the right direction, others remain sceptical, arguing that the designs are not merely “inspired by” Kolhapuri chappals but effectively identical. “This isn’t inspired by the Kolhapuri. This IS the Kolhapuri,”, the pricing disparity and limited scale of artisan inclusion have further added to the issued, with one user adding , “The fact that people can get original Kolhapuri sandals at half the price is wild. Why copy an inspired design and charge more for it? Make no sense for me.”
Beyond Prada: Industry Pattern And What Comes Next
The Prada episode sits within a broader pattern of global luxury brands drawing on Indian craft traditions, with companies such as Ralph Lauren, Dior, and Balenciaga facing similar scrutiny in recent years. Increased digital visibility, amplified by watchdog platforms like Diet Sabya, and GenZ who are digitally ctive and blue authenticity over brand name, has made cultural attribution and ethical sourcing central to brand accountability.
The controversy has also renewed calls to strengthen India’s Geographical Indication framework, particularly in global markets where enforcement remains limited. While GI tags recognise cultural heritage, experts previously told BW Businessworld that they provide only partial protection without cross-border legal backing, leaving traditional designs vulnerable to replication without compensation.
“Despite the fact that Kolhapuri footwear has received a GI tag, which protects it within India, it has not yet been patented. This leaves it vulnerable to exploitation in the global market. This is not the first time international brands have taken advantage of Indian designs. For instance, Louis Vuitton previously used Banarasi motifs and Indian embroidery styles in their collections without any direct collaboration,” Prachi Kaushik, Founder and Director, Vyomini Social Enterprise, a non-profit organisation previously told BW Businessworld.
Prada’s latest initiative represents a clear course correction, from omission to acknowledgment, and from inspiration to structured collaboration supported by institutional partnerships and training investments. However, fundamental questions remain around intellectual property ownership, long-term income distribution, and whether such programmes can scale meaningfully across the broader artisan ecosystem.
